When I last wrote some two months ago, I was just getting my feet wet in China. My language skills have greatly improved in the meantime. Before, I wrote that I figured out how to order chicken- flapping my arms and constantly repeating the word ji (chicken). Since then, I've learned that jiji is a slang word for prostitute. So while I thought I was being clever in getting myself understood, I was likely just ordering a flying prostitute. Many such funny occurrences continue to take place here. Old men tell me that I'm beautiful because I have a beard, while children are just as likely to cower in fear at my appearance. China's great.
In Beijing, I got a phone. While I was reluctant to reenter the 20th century, I'm glad that I did. It's made meeting people and staying in touch much easier. I'm no longer strictly confined to the social scene provided by the hostels. After a couple moths here, I've met many people and made lots of friends- some of them even keepers.
I'm coming up on almost 100 days in this country. It sounds like a long time, but there's so much that I haven't seen and would love to explore. China being such a big country, it has pretty much everything a traveller could want. Fantastic scenery, ranging from rice terraces here in the South, the desert up North, the Tibetan plateau to the West and mountains all in between, interesting dynamic cities like Beijing and Hong Kong (I guess it's China), long proud history, colorful people, and of course many great foods.What's best is that it's all out in the open to see and experience, from hair cuts on the street, to morning tai-chi in the park. SE Asia is calling me, and I expect to continue my great time there. Although I wouldn't be surprised to return here when my travels are over.
Chinese Enthusiasm
It doesn't take a genius to notice the rapid changes taking place in China. This is clearly a very exciting time for the country and fascinating to watch. Some of the development is pulling the populace out of poverty and pushing the country into the 21st century, a remarkable accomplishment.
The next World Expo is taking place this Spring in Shanghai. I have no doubtt that it will be the biggest and most impressive of all time. They've estimated 70 million attendees, and as a planner for the Belgian exhibit said, if the people aren't showing up, the country will bus them in. If China says there will be 70million, then that's what there will be. The physical changes taking place in Shanghai are extraordinary, the number of subway lines doubled in five years and will double again in the next ten. Thr skyline which already boasts some of the largest buildings has plans for many more.
The ever present enthusiasm here scares me. Not because of the blustering nationalism, but because it stinks of hubris. The recent collapse of Dubai and our own problems are a reminder of what happens when the economic engine slows. Talk here of constant 10% growth and new forms of government/capitalism seem extremely naive.
Shaving Cream Fight!
During my last two weeks in China, I've been joined by my good friend Charles. As if that weren't present enough, he came bringing gift- my very own kindle. I've often lamented the difficulty of finding good books on the road. Hostels have a very limited book selection usually consisting of Dan Brown, Danielle Steele and War and Peace (not interested, no way, and already read it). Now I'm free from the random book exchanges. It's a great toy and it already holds a place in my heart.
Charles and I are doing a quick Yunan loop.We started in Kunming, went up to Lijiang to hike the Tiger Leaping Gorge and our now in Dali for Christmas. Like many Jews, I often spend Christmas eve in a Chinese restaurant, which is exactly what I did last night. From there, I entered uncharted traditional territory. Usually the food is followed by a movie, but that's not what happened last night. The street had a militant, festive atmosphere. Since it doesn't snow in Dali (still chilly though), the Chinese people create their own with shaving cream. In a giving spirit, it is appropriate to share some of this snow with your neighbor. Basically the streets turn into a giant shaving cream fight. Charles and I were unawares of this, fortunately you can purchase bottles at the side of the road. Between the two of us we must have unloaded more than 20 cans. While that may seem sufficient to ward off would be attackers, it was not. Upon seeing us, young and old would shout Laowei (foreigner) and a hoard would converge on us. We were often short of breath from chasing and being chased and more than once we found ourselves doubled over in laughter, doused in cream. Having battles with the little kids was the most fun, since they would giggle hysterically and never a threat for serious damage. Spraying teenage boys was often a disastrous decisions, as others would quickly come together to attack as one unit. It was all good fun, but by the time we tasted so much shaving cream our tongues became numb, we knew it was time to call it a night. Hopefully your holidays are filled with such joy and laughter.
Next Plans
Charles and I are headed to Xueshanbanna, the southern most (and warm) region of China. It's known for it's tropical scenery and laid back atmosphere. Being close to the Thai and Burmese border it's also home to a fair amount of illicit activity. We met a local the other day who stressed how cheap the prostitutes are ("cheaper than having a girlfriend"), but I think we'll leave the seedy the activities to other travelers. Next week I'll be flying to Vietnam, where in the South I'll be meeting some friends. From there I'll meet my parents in Thailand, and we'll go over to Cambodia together. So that's my plan for the next couple of months. After that I'll hopefully see some other country in SE before heading over to India, where I expect to find both spiritual enlightenment and stomach problems. Ah traveling.
Happy holidays and best wishes for a exciting, joy-filled 2010. I would love to hear from you and don't hesitate to fly out here and join me for some adventures.
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